Costuming Hallmark Channel’s ‘When Calls the Heart’
Dressing a historical drama on a budget can be a nightmare for costume designers, but for When Calls The Heart’s Barbara Gregusova, it’s a fun challenge that allows her to use all of her creative talents and problem-solving skills.
The Slovakia-born artist is new to the production this season, but she has over a decade of experience costuming theatrical and film productions, and is also a noted jewelry designer. Her specialty is period costuming, which she’s used on productions ranging from a film set in the 1910s, to the 1960s (for retelling of Shakespeare’s As You Like It) and even a fantasy-filled production of the fairytale Cinderella.
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And in Season 3 of When Calls the Heart, Gregusova reveals that the show’s costuming is a blend of Seasons 1, which was accurate to the 1910 time period, and Season 2, which was more modern. “Hallmark wanted me to still do 1910 but with a modern feel. I usually call it a ‘stylized 1910 period’ because we are trying to keep some of the period silhouettes, but when it comes to the color palette, it’s definitely brighter and very Hallmark-ish because it’s very colorful,” she told TV Insider.
The series has faced criticism for some fans for not adhering to 100% period accuracy, but that decision to dress the cast in clothing that was historically-inspired, rather than entirely historically accurate was a request from the network. Hallmark Channel asked Gregusova to keep within the network’s romantic design aesthetic to ensure that all Hallmark Channel’s productions maintain a signature look and feel.
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If you stand several of the network’s heroines next to each other, they all would have vibrant, texturally interesting, and well-made wardrobes with a similar design aesthetic that is easy for viewers to relate to. I can tell you that while I have never worn a corset like Erin Krakow’s character Elizabeth Thatcher, I certainly find pleasure in a crisp, clean blouse and a bright, beautiful coat — and cleanliness and color weren’t top priority in a dusty 1910s frontier town.
One of the most challenging aspects of Gregusova’s job is budgeting: both time and money. “We don’t really have a budget for me building costumes from 1910,” she said, “so that’s why it’s easier to incorporate that modern feel; because I can go to a store and buy something. While it’s not necessarily the right silhouette, we can re-cut it.”
Who knew that this gorgeous coat began its life as something different?
Gregusova recalls blue coat of Elizabeth’s that underwent a major overhaul before making it to screen. “What I bought was basically a loose-fitting coat which didn’t have any buttons. I really liked the fabric and it worked for the character, so I basically re-pinned the entire thing, and we made it fitted, and we added buttons and fastenings.” The result was a garment that was custom for the wants and needs of the actress and character, but at a fraction of the cost of building the item from scratch. And the results are stunning.
Another challenge is the constant shortage of time. A film or theatrical production may have months of pre-production, but television’s quick production schedule means that Gregusova is usually working on the preproduction of two episodes while concurrently filming two episodes “We always have some sort of big event every two episodes,” she added, noting that the final two episodes of WCTH’s third season presented a particular challenge.
“Our last two episodes are really big, for wardrobe,” she hinted. “We needed to dress a lot of the cast in multiple outfits. If you need multiple outfits, that means something is going to happen. Either they get dirty or there is some action going on. Basically, for the last episode, we needed multiples for most of the cast, even the guys, and Abigail and Elizabeth!”
Babbling About Brooke
And in Sunday’s season finale, Gregusova had a fun challenge in dressing statuesque beauty Brooke Shields, who makes a visit to Hope Valley as Jack’s (Daniel Lissing) Annie Oakley-like mother.
Gregusova reveals that this duster coat worn by actress Brooke Shields only required minor changes, but her suede coat needed a big fix.
“She has a very different look from every lady in the whole valley, so we wanted something more manly,” she said. Gregusova was able to alter a pair of Ralph Lauren riding pants, which she says, “had really nice detail and were historically accurate,” and made them better suited to the actress. And she and her team created two signature jackets for Shield’s strong character. “We wanted a duster coat. We found something that was in the right size, and then we just needed to make sure her waist was seen. Usually, dusters have a loose fit.”
“We found another coat, it was suede, and vintage,” she says and notes that you buy vintage; you don’t have a choice in size. “Brooke is very tall, and sometimes with tall actors you have problems with the sleeves. On this suede coat, we were short, I think, two inches.”
The necessary alteration required the designer to get creative with the too-short arms. “We added a little corduroy strip with a little button detail on it. It actually worked fine,” and adds with a laugh, “but we had to cut up some pants because that was the only fabric that was really close to the jacket!”
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I didn't mind the glamour of the costumes until the hair styles went totally off the rails. Suddenly I'm not immersed in a period drama, I'm watching a mishmash show that seems to be set in the "past." It's a lot to ask of viewers to suspend their disbelief to this extent. If the hair and shoes are wrong, then pack it in because if you don't care, then I don't care.
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It's the hairstyles that bother me. They didn't wear it loose, especially married women.
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I searched for an article on the costuming and styling for this show because it is so bizarre. I'm glad I'm not the only one put off by this. I'd buy the costumer's reasons above -- at least in the colors but all the hair styles and men's clothing are particularly modern and really take away from the quality of this show. That, and the fact that these folks are pretty nicely dressed across the board when we know the times in which they are "living" are challenging financially. Except for Elizabeth, who comes from money, it's a little crazy not to see repeat outfits and outfits of a more reasonable level for the income the characters earn.
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I've been watching, because I enjoy sweet and kind shows as a remedy from the world's insanity. BUT, I am so annoyed by the in accuracies and total disregard for the time period. It's the clothes, the hairstyles, the make-up, the dialogue, the attitudes…pretty much everything is wrong. And one little blonde boy invites his friend for dinner saying "We're having spaghetti," when there's not one Italian in the town. It's highly unlikely that Lori Laughlin's character would be making the laborious pasta for dinner after working in the cafe all day. Taking modern characters, clothing, attitudes and setting them back 100+years is just stupid. Great shows like Downton Abbey and even Little House on the Prairie did not resort to this. I see this catering to current tastes part of the dumbing down of America. If people are so shallow that they can't relate to characters with different hairstyles I truly fear for this world.
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I really can't stand the modern costumes, hairstyles, makeup, and attitudes. I find them very distracting. I'm halfway through season 2 right now and am considering quitting because it's so irritating to me. I miss the more historically accurate, wholesome, simple feeling of the first season. Hallmark ruined this show.
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I want to add that I also am disappointed in the costuming especially in season 3. I tried to ignore it, but just can't seem to get past it....thus I happened upon these comments. Adding some color isn't a big deal to me, but all the ladies with hair down and obviously curled with modern day appliances makes me feel I have been cheated somehow of my trip into the past. Also Lori Laughlin's loose-fitting blouses and dipping v-necks are not flattering and are very impractical for a waitress leaning over to serve coffee, etc. She would have garnered a very bad reputation for dressing that way, I'm certain.
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I only watched one episode of this show, since my MIL loves it--watching it with her. But I was immediately distracted by the inaccurate hairstyles, make-up--lots of eyeshadow and lip gloss--and the pierced earrings that just about every woman on the show wears. None of those were the style at that time period. And then there's the issue of Lori Loughlin's character even thinking of being a mayor of her town. Women didn't even have the vote in Canada until, at the earliest, 1916. Then the first woman to hold an office was 1940. So this wouldn't have even been a twinkle in any woman's eye at this point in history. This show reflects 2010 sensibilities, not 1910's. When my MIL asked how I liked it, I wanted to be kind to her feelings. But really didn't like the way things were portrayed. Totally ruined the show for me.
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I get why women ran their town. Most of the men died in the mine explosion. That could've happened temporarily.
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I really liked the look and feel of the vintage clothing. The bright colors and more modern cuts just didn't work for me. This is a town where people are struggling, there is no clothing store anywhere nearby. We are intelligent viewers and I believe enjoy authenticity of the characters and what they wear.
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The modern costumes bug me like crazy. Part of the "escape" of watching a show set in this era is historical reference. If we wanted a modern show, we would watch a modern show. Budget or not, the costumes are terrible.
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It’s the ultra-sculpted, unrealistic eyebrows and caked in makeup that bother me. All characters, men, women and CHILDREN have those weird eyebrows.
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These costumes and hair styles do not reflect any historical accuracy at all. Hallmark has disregarded the historical aspect of the show entirely by glossing over very important historical cultural/moral standards of that time period. Loose hair, low cut shirts and make up would have turned a woman into a morally corrupt social pariah during that time period. I refuse to watch it anymore because I can't support anything that completely deceives historical facts.
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I'M sorry but if you are going to do a period show. Do the right type of costumes Murdoch Mysteries is a period show and the
costumes are a lot better. Other wise the show is fine.
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Really disappointed in the “fake” period pieces in the material they use and in the bright colors. But I won’t stop watching because there’s hardly anything else worth watching on TV nowadays.
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I wish that the women would ware hats like in little house on the prairie. This show is set on 1910 and little house 1870's.
Another thing that is really strange is that all the women on the show are dressed all the time so nice and tight dresses even when the are home alone, doing the house chores or resting. Can't they have some comfortable clothes?
I agree that the hair styles are too modern.
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I love the show and enjoy it for what it is without picking it apart. In this era when we need uplifting viewing pleasures I look forward to the show, the color, the styles. Unless you are watching a historical documentary, there is always some license taken in set design fashion, etc. I think it is beautiful, gentle and enjoyable. I think people that criticize should also try to check their own facts first. Just relax and enjoy the show!🙂
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I just discovered WCTH and have made my way into Season 3. While I love the show, I too am starting to find the hair and makeup distracting. The clothes don't bother me quite as much, but I do find myself thinking quite often that the characters' looks are "off" and missing Seasons 1 and 2 for that. 🙁
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The series also lacked a hair stylist to do 1910's hair.
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I just saw a current episode that that female Doctor wore a pantsuit that the pants were so tight fitting. It goes against anything a proper lady of the time would wear.
The hair styles already not appropriate for the time. This may end up a dream of someone one day. Mixing of old and modern styles doesn’t work for me.
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I agree with others here. Please adjust the fashions. They'd repeat outfits. There homes aren't big enough to hold all of these clothes. I hate the other details that aren't accurate such as twinkle lights, hair styles, and other decorations. How did these character get perfectly waxed eyebrows and perfect makeup?
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I think they make the women's waists look unrealistically small or are they really that small? Don't think so.
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It REALLY bothers me that everyone has a totally new outfit in every episode. This is sooooo far from giving you a feeling of what it was like to live in those times. I mean, seriously? Even the 'impoverished widows' have a non-stop wardrobe, while living out in a remote town.
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I can't watch it anymore. It has to much goody-goody.
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The hair styles and colours are so off that I don't think I could continue watching which is a shame as it is a harmless and entertaining show. Why have all the women's hair loose? Also no man of that time of Jack's station would be out in a restaurant without a tie or cravat. What are they thinking of!?
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I love this show and don't care what they wear, as long as there is #kissingLissing!!
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fellow Slovak, congrats!
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I am a recent WCTH viewer. I did notice yeah it is not all that accurate but I really didn't care after watching it and always wanting to see the next episode, then clothing was last on my mind. lol
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This was very fascinating! I never would have thought that remaking a store-bought outfit would be cheaper than sewing it from scratch! While I do prefer authentic costuming, I know that WCTH is a very expensive show for a small but growing channel like Hallmark to air (they dictate the number of episodes they can buy each season from Brian Bird and Michael Landon Jr's production company), so I'd rather Hallmark spend the money on more episodes than creating expensive, hand-made, authentIc costuming.
And coming from an advertising background myself, maintaining a brand look & feel is critical to customer/viewer loyalty.
In a perfect world, Hallmark would spring for the better wardrobe, but as the other reader said, I'd rather see more #kissinglissing!
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I love the color in their outfits and feel that it's really a mark that Erin's and especially Pascale's characters are making in the town. I also don't mind that Hallmark wants the show to reflect their brand--afterall they are paying for it all! I love this show and for me, it's not about the clothes but the relationships built both on the show and off the show.
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